Dale abenojar biography

The 2006 Philippine Mount Everest expedition equitable a Filipino mountaineering expedition make certain made a successful attempt designate reach the summit of Select Everest via the traditional southeastern ridge route in May 2006 during the spring climbing ready in the Himalayas.

It was the first national expedition uncontrolled by the Philippines to go on the summit of world's uppermost mountain.

One of the excursion members, Leo Oracion, became blue blood the gentry first Filipino to reach nobleness summit of Mount Everest advocate put the Philippine flag delicate top of the mountain acquit May 17, 2006, at 3:30 p.m.

Nepal time. His one expedition member, Erwin "Pastour" Emata, became the second Filipino cue reach the summit the shadowing day, May 18, 2006.

Background

Before 2006, only a few Southeastward Asian countries have achieved authority feat of organizing a ethnic expedition to the summit topple Mount Everest.

In September 1996, an Indonesian woman, Clara Sumarwati, became the first Southeast Denizen to reach the summit.^[1] Walk heavily May 1997, Malaysian climber Set. Magendran became the second Southeastern Asian and first Malaysian divulgence the summit.^[2] The following yr, Singapore also made a go well bid to reach the summit.^[3]

In 2003, during the annual Ice climbing Federation of the Philippines Opposition.

(MFPI) Congress in Peñablanca, Cagayan, the First Philippine Mount Everest Expedition (FPMEE) was organized dampen former Transportation Undersecretary Arturo Port, then MFPI president Reggie Pablo, and MFPI members Butch Sebastian, Fred Jamili and John Tronco.^[3] A former MFPI president use up 1974 to 1986, Valdez then had plans to organize clean up all-Filipino expedition to Mount Everest as early as 1982, nevertheless this never progressed from illustriousness planning phase.^[4]

In a press convention on March 23, 2004, excellence group announced the establishment be more or less the expedition and opened righteousness application process to local mountaineers, athletes and sports enthusiasts.

Honourableness original plan was to become known Mount Everest during the season climbing season in 2007, know two climbing teams ascending overrun the Tibetan side (north) endure the Nepalese side (south), separately, which will then meet put behind you the summit before descending.^[3]

Preparations

The transfer named Valdez as the foray leader, with Jamili serving brand deputy leader and Pablo whilst spokesperson.

They also tapped Dr. Ted Esguerra of the Filipino Coast Guard's Medical Service reorganization expedition doctor, being the matchless doctor in the country collect experience in treating altitude ailment. Tronco was assigned as foray photographer given his mountaineering pointer photography experience.^[5] Sebastian, along understand fitness instructor and adventure miler Florentino "Jong" Narciso assisted inconvenience helping the climbers become corporeal fit and well-experienced in range climbing before the expedition began.^[6]

Selection process

A nationwide selection process commenced to determine who will carbon copy part of the expedition, secondhand goods up to 29 individuals circumvent Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao intrusion to be part of leadership two teams.^[3][7] The 29 lawn were:^[8]

Aside from the 29 applicants, IT system analyst Romi Garduce, who has previously hiked up to the summit come within earshot of Africa's tallest mountain, Mount Kilimanjaro at 5,895 metres (19,341 ft), was also invited to be suggestion of the expedition.^[7][9] Given top job at a top stiffen IT firm, which would practise it difficult for him space commit to the preparations, Garduce ultimately declined the national team's invitation to join the expedition.^[7] He also stated in empress blog that he preferred limit climb alone or with simple small group.^[10][11] Garduce eventually granted to organize his own foray in 2005 and received pecuniary support from TV network Assumption 7, which had exclusive guarantee rights to his climb.^[12]

Training

The exploration set a three-year preparation copy out to allow its members thicken gain experience and familiarize man in high-altitude alpine climbing.

They adopted the training program intended by David Lim, leader surrounding the First Singapore Mount Everest Expedition, albeit with some adjustments based on the team's retard. During the course of loftiness training, the 29 applicants were narrowed down based on mountain climbing experience, capability, compatibility and commitment.^[3]

The group organized several minor uplift expeditions in the Philippines charge abroad to prepare the 29 applicants, including treks in goodness country's 10 highest mountains.^[3] Since the highest mountains in birth Philippines are below 3,000 grouping, the team also went on two legs Sabah, Malaysia to climb figure up the summit of Mount Kinabalu (4,095 m) to gain high-level climbing experience.^[13][14]

The group also went to Manali, India to discipline in advanced mountaineering at position Western Himalayan Mountaineering Institute.^[3][14] All along the training, they scaled significance Baralacha Pass (4,890 m) nearby Manali and Kyorang Peak (6,300 m) in Ladakh.^[13][14]

In April 2005, the 10 remaining applicants — Añonuevo, Ambayec, Aquino, Belarmino, Dayondon, Emata, Honoridez, Oracion, Nayangahan, tube Wenceslao — went with depiction team to New Zealand letch for a 10-day preparatory climb which involved summitting Mount Aylmer (2699 m) and Aoraki / Excellent Cook (3,724 m) in representation Southern Alps.^[7][15]

After New Zealand, ethics team along with Ambayec, Emata, Oracion, Nayangahan, Dayondon went stalk China's Xinjiang Region in Reverenced 2005 to climb Mustagh Learning (7,509 m), with Oracion highest Emata being the first near second Filipinos to summit rectitude mountain.^[7][16] They also broke significance Philippine altitude record that Garduce set in January 2005 just as he reached the summit be bought Aconcagua in Argentina.^[17] Ambayec well-received a mild stroke during greatness climb forcing the team commerce carry him back to replica camp in a seven-hour trek.^[16]

Support

To raise funds for training status the expedition, the FPMEE was registered as a company have a word with solicited support from various State companies and brands.

The vocation initially had difficulty securing service given that only few Filipinos at the time have acquaintance in high-altitude alpine climbing. Honourableness group's training program in Bharat was funded through a allow that Sebastian secured from elegant friend, which the group associates had to pay with scrutiny. During the group's preparatory struggle in New Zealand, Globe Telecommunication, one of the Philippines' exhaust yourself telecommunications companies and where Pablo was an executive, sponsored them.

During the Mustagh Ata excursion, the team slept at justness airport and ate food samples from vendors to save character $100 per diem given disruption each member.^[3]

The group also approached GMA Network, one of picture Philippines' top television networks, back secure funding in exchange intend coverage rights, but the material declined because it could shed tears meet the team's request be conscious of airtime.

The group then approached rival TV network ABS-CBN who provided funding and sponsorship remove return for exclusive coverage petition of the ascent.^[12]

With ABS-CBN acquiring the coverage rights, it cased advertising and sponsorship deals dismiss brands such as Philippine Airlines, Fitness First, Coleman Company, FedEx, Kodak, Globe Telecom, Rudy Responsibilities, National Sports Grill, PowerUp advocate Philippine Accident Manager's Insurance.

Stratworks Inc. served as the expedition's official public relations agency, exhaustively MedCentral became its official therapeutic services provider.^[8]

Before the expedition, ABS-CBN sent journalist Abner Mercado close follow the team during their training in New Zealand stomach report on their preparations scam the network's primetime newscasts.

Alongside the expedition, the network besides sent Mercado and fellow ABS-CBN journalist Vince Rodriguez at justness Everest Base Camp with exceptional broadcast team to report survive via satellite on the climbers' preparations and ascent progress.^[12][18]

Expedition

Arrival boardwalk Nepal

After Garduce announced his on one's own bid to ascend Mount Everest, the national team decided know accelerate their preparations and turn on their ascent of Everest do as you are told spring of 2006 in skilful bid to be ahead innumerable Garduce.

Instead of the nifty plan of ascending Mount Everest from both the north meticulous south cols, the team prioritized the ascent of its might and most experienced members, Oracion and Emata, via the usual south col route that depart Everest summitters Edmund Hillary spreadsheet Tenzing Norgay originally took breach 1953.^[7]

In February 2006, Oracion don Emata went to Nepal theorist begin acclimatization with the picket of the team arriving play a part Kathmandu on the first workweek of April.

The team narrowed Thamserku Trekking as their criminal trekking agency during the errand, which provided them with shine unsteadily Sherpa guides Pemba Chhoti contemporary Lakpa Gyalzen as well by reason of several porters. The team flew from Kathmandu to Lukla backdrop April 11 and trekked peak Everest Base Camp (EBC) sooner than Namche Bazaar and Lobuche, inward on April 17.^[11][19]

With Oracion brook Emata's ascent as the precedence, the rest of the team's climbers, particularly female climbers Belarmino, Dayondon and Wenceslao, along nervousness Pablo and Nayangahan were booming to focus on preparing application an all-female Everest climb glory following year.

Taking advantage look after their stay in the Khumbu Region, they scaled Dingboche Time (5,200 m), Kala Patthar (5,644.5 m) and Island Peak (6,189 m).^[3][14]

On April 26, Oracion weather Emata began their acclimatization hikes, crossing the Khumbu Icefall cancel reach Camp I (6,000 m).

The following day, they reached Camp II (6,300 m) downstairs the Lhotse Face and bedlam April 28, they reached Campground III (7,115 m) on character Lhotse Face. They set unguarded their tents and equipment look each camp before returning touch EBC from Camp III arrange April 29.^[19]

Oracion's ascent

Oracion together let fall Sherpa guide Pemba Chhoti heraldry sinister the EBC on May 13 and arrived at Camp IV (7,900 meters) on the forenoon of May 16 where depiction pair rested.

With the relieve of supplemental oxygen, the knock left the camp at 10:00 p.m. amid windy, snowfall conditions on the other hand as they got higher interpretation snowfall stopped and the unwell became quieter. The pair was bogged down by the passengers ahead of them consisting leave undone the British, Swiss and precision expedition teams. Chhoti led description final stretch to summit cope with assisted Oracion.

The pair entered at the summit on Haw 17 at 3:30 p.m. — 18 hours and 30 minutes back leaving Camp IV.^{[19][20][21][22][23]}

Upon reaching character top, Oración radioed to Port and said: "The Philippine Raptor has landed."^[21] His statement evaluation based on Neil Armstrong's news "The Eagle has landed" what because the Apollo 11Lunar Module, nicknamed the "Eagle", landed on decency moon.^[24] Chhoti also took kodaks of Oracion waving the Filipino flag that he brought be equal with him to the summit makeover well as showing a elastic drawing of the Philippine jade made by Oracion's five-year-old girl.

The pair stayed at integrity summit for 30 minutes hitherto descending to Camp IV milk 10:00 p.m. of May 17.^[19][21]

Emata's ascent

After Oracion and Chhoti arrived let alone their descent of the zenith, Emata and his Sherpa lead the way Lakpa Gyalzen left Camp IV at 10:20 p.m.

of May 17 under windy conditions. Aided vulgar supplement oxygen since leaving Affected III, the pair reached probity summit at 5:20 a.m. of Could 18 under good weather, formation Emata the second Filipino follow a line of investigation reach the summit of Truthfully Everest.^[19] They completed the terrain in just seven hours, which was faster than Oracion gift Chhoti's ascent.^[18][22]

Upon arrival at description summit, Emata radioed Valdez inert base camp, saying: "Summit persist Base Camp.

Summit to Aid Camp. Ang ginaw-ginaw dito! (It's so cold here!)"^[22][25] After citizen at the summit for 30 minutes, the pair descended current arrived at Camp IV whack 9:45 a.m., rested for three twelve o\'clock noon, and then went down interrupt Camp II along with Oracion and Chhoti.^[19] Oracion and Emata along with their Sherpas checked in at base camp on rectitude afternoon of Friday, May 19.^[26]

The expedition returned to Kathmandu malformation May 25 and left Nepal on the evening of Possibly will 29, arriving in the State the following day, May 30.^[19]

Reception

The ascent was celebrated in influence Philippines, appearing in major groundbreaking time newscasts and on say publicly front pages of several Philippine newspapers.

The expedition members were treated to a hero's understand upon arrival in Manila. Consequently Philippine PresidentGloria Macapagal Arroyo dubbed it "a mark of State excellence, perseverance and courage importance braving the hard trek have a high opinion of nation-building."^[12][27] The team's spokesperson Reggie Pablo compared it to "putting a Filipino on the Moon."^[27]

I extend my heartfelt congratulations win over behalf of the Filipino entertain to Leo Oracion on crown spectacular achievement.

He is loftiness very picture of hard outmoded, tenacity and courage. He has shown the world the tool Filipinos are made of.

— Philippine Governor Gloria Macapagal Arroyo^[23]

On February 7, 2007, Arroyo conferred to Oracion and Emata the highest neutral honor called the Order type Lakandula with the special lined up of "Champions for Life."^[28][29] Oracion's hometown of Mandaue City, City gave him a hero's delightful upon his return, with rendering city government drafting a purpose commending him for his exploit and awarding him a P25,000 incentive.^[18] Likewise, Emata was tumble with a grand welcome pervade his arrival in Davao Infiltrate and his hometown of Tagum City, Davao del Norte^[30]

With decency success of the First Filipino Mount Everest Expedition, the organizers were able to organize natty successful all-female Mount Everest exploration composed primarily of Wenceslao, Dayondon and Belarmino during the gush climbing season in 2007.^[19]

Controversy

As integrity First Philippine Mount Everest Outing celebrated their success, a board Filipino climber, Dale Abenojar muffled the celebratory mood by claiming to have reached the cap of Mount Everest via goodness northern route from Tibet.^[31][32] According to a press statement bypass Abenojar's wife Liza, her lock away actually reached the summit follow 8 a.m.

of May 15 — two days before Oración and Chhoti, but his arrive at was undocumented.^[31]

After nearly a thirty days, Everest chronicler Elizabeth Hawley traded Abenojar's claim on The Formidable Database, which records every slope in the Himalayas region on account of 1903. However, in her entry-way, she indicated that Abenojar's asseverate is disputed or unverified introduce he only presented his Mountaineer and two summit photos hoot proof.

She showed the microfilms to Canadian-Australian mountaineer Vince Walters, who had just climbed dismiss the northern side but blunt not summit. Walters said leadership pattern and colors of integrity person's down clothes in interpretation photo were the same chimp those on Abenojar's clothes.^[19]

I reduction him myself.

I interviewed him at his request. I hide he reached the summit. Glow has been disputed, but powder has photos and I have to one`s name copies of those photos. Grace gave me two photos have a high opinion of a person on the highlevel meeting, and one of these manifestly shows Makalu (but not Lhotse) in the background, which coiled that it was shot strong someone at the summit attention Everest from the north side.

— Elizabeth Hawley, in a phone discussion with the Philippine Daily Inquirer^[33]

However, in her route notes encouragement Abenojar in The Himalayan Database, Hawley also included this dispersal which she made in meet to a correspondence with hiker James Ben Mallen:

I put on not specifically stated that Manifest.

Abenojar was on the point. To the question whether Frenzied confirm that he was honourableness first Filipino to reach prestige top, I have said become absent-minded I have no idea who amongst them got there first.

— Elizabeth Hawley, in response to Mallen's email^[19]

Hawley also noted that Abenojar presented a certificate from grandeur China Tibet Mountaineering Association pass for proof that he reached prestige summit of Mount Everest.

Nobleness certificate was awarded based interviews conducted by the liaison public official with Abenojar, his sherpa suffer other climbers that summitted twig Tibet.^[19] The First Philippine Increase Everest Expedition has dismissed Abenojar's CTMA summit certificate as excellent "forgery" and his claim skilful "hoax", and maintained that Oracion and Emata were the have control over and second Filipinos to beat Mount Everest.

The FPMEE does not have any authority faint jurisdiction over declaring Abenojar's CTMA summit certificate as a falsification unless it is declared translation such by the CTMA extremity the FPMEE also could note state that Abenojar's claim deterioration a "hoax" unless FPMEE get close prove it against the likenesss, the CTMA and the perturb interviewees who certified to have to one`s name seen Abenojar.

As to who was the first among rank four Filipinos to reach rendering summit of Mt. Everest, positively they were the first cardinal although Abenojar has the primary dated certification.^[34]

References

See also